NYFW: A STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

New York Fashion week will end tomorrow with the much anticipated Marc Jacobs show- always looked forward to of course but an extra frisson this season given the intense speculation that the designer will soon be making a move from Vuitton to Dior. Meanwhile, the FashEd and I are busily preparing for the beginning of London's turn on the SS12 merry-go- around. I am particularly excited given this is the first time that I am in some way a real part of the event which I have long read about and dreamt of attending. As somewhat of an aside, I would thoroughly recommend to any readers in that same position I was in just a few months ago (or any reader really) to read Lisa Armstrong's account of her journey to becoming a Fashion Editor. Even the Editors at the very top of their game began blagging their way into shows and adoring the industry they now play a pivotal role in from afar.

So what's been going on at NYFW? Well, there have, apparently, been clothes as well as pregnant pop mega stars and newborn Beckham babies but who'd have known? The clothes are what we here at FEAL want to share with you now. In the coming weeks and months we'll be sharing a tighter edit of the trends which emerge from the shows. But now, in the midst of things, I have picked some looks which jumped out at me.

Narciso Rodriguez: We can already be quite certain that a dropped waist will be an important silhouette. The dress below gives this normally straight and stark detail a modern fluidity. Cut on the bias and not quite at the usual dropped level, we recognise the reference but it's something new too. And the colours whisper 'Summer holiday'.

Narciso Rodriguez SS12

 Theyskens' Theory was true to form in its easy wearability. The loose, deconstructed pocket trousers are a sure hit. I will dream tonight about those shiny versions, will someone invite me to a reptilean fancy dress party please? The jacket and the drop-waist dress make one think of the original purveyor of clothes women could live in, Mlle Chanel. But then we look to the feet and the models are being sent down the runway in these trillion inch heels. Rebecca Lowthorpe at Elle asked, via Twitter, that if Theyskens is so keen to dress women in clothes which they will be comfortable in, then why would he include such preposterously proportioned footwear? I can only think that they might add an element of legend and implausibility for a designer who doesn't want to become too literal- he perhaps wants his customers to feel there is an uncrossable canyon between what they see on the catwalk and what they buy and wear themselves. That show quality. But Theyskens was also playing with our minds a bit because his final look, the most heel-deserving of them all, was styled with worker boots. Maybe he just wants us to mix it up a bit more? Or maybe he thinks if Gaga can do it, why can't every other woman?

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Theyskens Theory SS12

Alexander Wang SS12

 Another trend which has been brewing since the last round of Spring/ Summer collections and now looks to have full- on exploded, is the printed suit/ top and trouser combo. My favourite thus far is Alexander Wang's for its mesh overlay, leather trim and flash of ab. The faded panel which bring the trousers to a high-waist is a genius twist which helps to break up the print bombardment. I am also fascinated by Wang's hats which look like a deconstructed version of the fun feline ones for Autumn/ Fall which the FashEd blogged about at the weekend. Either that or they look like bags on the models heads. The graphic suit is very Star Trek.

Alexander Wang SS12

Rodarte

 Designers often cite obscure sculptors or little known architects among their inspirations, which I do love. It means fashion is always expanding my horizons and making me look at things I would quite possibly not have come across otherwise. HOWEVER, the Mulleavy sisters cited Sleeping Beauty and Vincent Van Gogh as their references for this collection. A zany combination but probably familiar to most of us without having to furiously google something we've never heard of before. And the clothes are a testament to their deft handling of this pairing. It was refreshing also to see that Rodarte is looking across all decades for its shapes, prints and embellishments. There is a lot of room in this collection for the woman's own idea of who she wants to be.

Rodarte

Sophie Theallet

 As I read Meenal Mistry's synopsis of Sophie Theallet's show, I saw that Romy Schneider was one of Sophie's muses for this collection. This actress is important right now, given that Erdem used her as a key inspiration for his Resort offering. Theallet's collections was particularly influenced by La Piscine which Romy starred in alongside Alain Delon. I have provided a video as a taster. In case you don't speak French, she begins by saying she is only happy when she's with him and then, a few seconds later is telling him how annoying he is. Sexual tension is key and that backless dress is a key symbol of that. Romy is definitely somebody I will be writing more about at a later date. In the meantime, Sophie's clothes are rather lovely don't you think?

Sophie Theallet

And finally, Preen. This is by far my favourite so far. The colours make my mouth water. The peplums and frills take a silhouette which is familiar to a new level. It has sometimes been hard to imagine where print might go next with all the amazing work we have seen from the likes of Mary Kantrantzou and others. Bregazzi and Thornton have undoubtedly brought something very subtle but nevertheless new to the table which makes me go WOW, WOW, WOW!

Preen

Preen

Preen

Preen

All images from Style.com