GIVENCHY: THATS ALL

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I realised after posting my Haute Couture wishlist on Friday that I'd over-looked Givenchy and Alaia. So here is Givenchy. I need to post these images if only to maintain my tradition on this blog to wax in awe at the work that goes into the modern masterpieces created by the lovely anbd talented Riccardo Tisci . OK, so the delivery is much the same, a "team" photo of sorts, and the silhouette, look and feel of the clothes follows directly from the last Givenchy couture, but if it ain't broke...

In terms of the girls in this picture, the casting agent responsible has placed the worlds hottest young editorial and advertising models in the world now together. Quite a feat in every which way you look at it, from logisitcs to having the innate knowledge that each of these young women, in their own way, have the magic of "nowness".  Nice to see Saskia de Brauw in there (she's the only short-haired model), her outfit is my favourite too.

IF I WERE AN HAUTE COUTURE CUSTOMER, THIS WEEK...

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Haute Couture is the ultimate rarefied world of fashion. It occupies its own fashion space, one populated with women of wealth whose lifestyle most of us can only begin to comprehend.  Generally, the designers who excel in this area are several shades apart from everyday ready-to-wear designers. The fashion houses who cross over, successfully serving both sides of the clientele, are Chanel, Valentino and Armani.

To pass an hour or so on this fine morning I imagined what, after viewing the catwalk shows, I would order from the couture ateliers for myself (should I be forced to spend my money on such frivolities). In the case of Dior I felt it neccessary to purchase from what is probably the most derided Haute Couture collection ever designed, with a spirit of fun of course. There is a certain charm to the mad tranny-ness of the whole thing if you look at it from a certain angle...

Christian Dior Haute Couture - think I might just order the top as my local vintage shop has a room full of those skirts

Rock n roll couture from Chanel

Black tailored elegance from Bouchra Jarrar

I've always hankered after a couture parka - Jean Paul Gaultier Couture

For that Venetian ball I might be invited to - breathtaking beauty from Elie Saab

Divine Valentino Couture

There was something quite magical about this collection, so two purchases! - Valentino Couture

Beyonce wore Alexandre's gold jacket for her epic Glasto performance. Anything Beyonce can do, right? Alexandre Vauthier revives the Mugler/Montana 80s silhouette

Ideal coat for a Christmas party (that does not serve red wine) - Giambattista Valli

For tough-girling it around town at London Fashion Week? Maison Martin Margiela

Photos: Catwalking.com

OH DAPHNE!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

If you're wondering why I'm not at the Couture, its because this year I took my holiday earlier than usual. So here I am on the holy Greek isle of Patmos looking out over the sea from my vantage point high on the hill. While here I will be sharing fashion and holiday as well as holiday fashion musings. In August the new Fashion Junior at Large joins me and this blog will start to grow up a bit as I want to see what happens if I make it more than a hobby.  

I'm a huge fan of Daphne Guinness. Had she been around during the 1920s and 30s, she could have hung out with Nancy Cunard, Coco Chanel and Diana Vreeland (junior version, her later years are what inspire most people, but having read everything about DV in print I'm a fan of every year). People would have understood her better in that context. Daphne is a relic of women past, a rich and rarefied creature who exists in a bubble of art and philosophical musings. She is a woman who wholly believes in the romance of art, craft, creativity and couture and wishes to keep the old ways alive, which she does in the only way she knows how, by commissioning artisans to create works for her.

Below is one-such. Everything about this "launch" of a chain mail made-to-measure gauntlet glove  made up of 5000 pave diamonds and 1000 grams of gold makes me want to scream. But I'm torn between screaming at the ridiculousness of it, and the wonder of it. 

Had I been at Jay Jopling's house for the "launch" and watched Daphne "lie in state" shrouded in white silk tulle with just the glittering glove on show, I know I would have tittered uncontrollably at first and then been sucked in by the beauty of it.

I know plenty of people who will rubbish Daphne's project with Shaun, but in 100 years when its in a museum somewhere and people gather around to marvel at it and the memory of Daphne it will be a treasure. So I leave you with the press release, as I couldn't take it apart. Forgive me for lifting it.