THE RETURN OF BLING: FASHION GOES GEM-TASTIC

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

The most worn and blogged about fashion item of this Spring has been the Prada satin-collared bomber jacket covered with colourful chunky stones. During the catwalk shows I lost count of the number of people - both male and female - who owned one, and each individual jacket seemed unique to the wearer. That is the power of a gem; they become part of you. It is also the power of Prada. Every time I saw one on someone I become mesmerised to the point of childlike awe; I need one of these jackets in my life, as entertainment if nothing else.  

Miuccia Prada tends to roll out an influential corker for the summer season, and a more commercial collection for winter. This summer's Prada collection may have revved up the high street with its Vroom-Vroom car iconography but it also, it turns out, has influenced the most directional catwalk designers for Autumn from Lanvin to Vuitton, Nina Ricci to Versace, and we're not talking about the cars, but the hundredweight of bling.  Miu Miu and Prada carried on showering chunks of rock onto their clothes for Autumn.. but scroll down and you will see how the rest of the high fashion firmament lost themselves to the power of opening fire with equivalent of an AK 47 loaded with crystal ammo. 

This all marks the return of bling, something the BRIC countries - Brazil, Russia, India and China  - who are all in the throes of a boom time, will love and indulge to the max. In the Western market partaking in this trend will be done with more than a sense of irony. 

THE PRADA JACKET 

Prada 

More Prada

Even more Prada 

You guessed it... 

Street style blogger Hanneli Mustaparta mixes Tom Binns bling with a varsity jacket

More Tom Binns.. (All the above photos by the inimitable Tommy Ton for Style.com)

AUTUMN/WINTER 2O12 GEM-TASTIC OFFERINGS

Prada AW12 (image from www.jasonlloyd-evans.com)

Dolca and Gabbana AW12

Lanvin AW12

Lanvin AW12

Marni AW12

Nina Ricci AW12 

Versace AW12

Louis Vuitton AW12 (all catwalk images from www.catwalking.com)

THINGS TO BUY NOW... 

Jewelled sandals £58 Topshop

Gem sandals £40 River Island

PRADA'S REAL FANTASIES SS12: ARE YOU A HOT-RODDER OR A GOLFER?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's not too often that a look book comes our way which takes the collection it's showing us into fantastical, nostalgic realms beyond fashion. So, when images from Prada's Spring/Summer look book, a continuation of the Real Fantasies series, pinged into our inbox this afternoon we had to share.

There's a video to accompany the look book which Prada have made available exclusively to their 1.6 million Facebook fans- check it out here (and below). Given that Prada's social media presence was virtually non-existent a couple of years ago, a Facebook fan base that massive is really rather impressive, if unsurprising. Also, this is the savviest time for reminding us all that Spring/Summer is only just beginning. Fresh from the AW12 shows, we'd almost forgotten that there's plenty of Summer fun to come before A/W descends.

We all know by now that Prada SS12 was all excessively pretty, jewel encrusted coats, skirts and dresses mixed up with flaming car motifs and prints. AMO-OMA, the architectural partnership which has collaborated closely with the Prada brand for a few seasons now, have devised a series of handmade collages which integrate the SS12 collection with kooky references to golfing, hot-rodding, playing board games- basically anything which recalls the idealised mid-century era which the fashion references but with a fun twist. We like!

All images courtesy of Prada

Credits:

PRODUCTION / ART DIRECTION: AMO / Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli, Fausto Fantinuoli

ARTWORK: Jeroen Koolhaas, Lok Jansen

PHOTOGRAPHY: Phil Meech

VIDEO DIRECTION: James Lima

MUSIC: Frédéric Sanchez

EXECUTIVE PRODUCER: Max Brun – Hi ! Production

EDITING: Brian Vincent Durkin

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 30th JANUARY- 2nd FEBRUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's cold outside, here's some fashion news to warm you up...

Jonathan Saunders SS12

Congratulations to the super wonderful Jonathan Saunders who has won the BFC/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award. He'll get £200,000 and specific mentoring to help his business grow. It's clear to me that Saunders 'gets' something about what women want from their clothes which is why his sales have skyrocketed by 118% in the past year; for the London shows, every other front rower was wearing a piece of Saunders. We're really pleased for you Jonathan! Let's not forget the runners-up who must have made the panel's decision pretty tough; Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Zoe Jordan, Nicholas Kirkwood, Marios Schwab and Meadham Kirchhoff.

When  Jonathan's win was announced, Lulu Kennedy (who supported Jonathan through her Fashion East scheme early in his career) tweeted a picture of Natalia Vodianova wearing a Saunder's dress on the cover of Vogue in 2004. I thought it'd be nice to share- thanks Lulu!

Jonathan Saunders covers Vogue in 2004- image from Lulu kennedy's twitter

A look from Stine Riis' collection (from wwd.com)

The first winner of the H&M Design Award was announced at Stockholm Fashion Week yesterday. Stine Riis is originally from Denmark but recently graduated from London College of Fashion. She wins 50,000 euros as well as the opportunity to have pieces from her collection sold in H&M stores in the Autumn. Check out the video below for all the action from the final...



Talking of LCF, the FashEd and I had a brilliant and inspiring time on Tuesday night at the college's MA exhibition. We heard lots of great stories and saw some beautiful work. Look out for our full report next week.

 Last year, Robin Derrick left British Vogue to work on the re-launch of the US edition of Harper's Bazaar. The fruits of his challenge to revamp the title were revealed this week with a stark monochrome cover starring Gwyneth Paltrow. According to our favourite New York tweeter @jimshi809 the 'Redesigned Harper's Bazaar US is one-inch bigger w/ thicker paper & new fonts & every new section starts w/ the world "the."' Now we know!

One of the many brilliant personalities in the Cunningham film,  Shail Upadhya, a
Nepalese UN representative and one of Bill's regular subjects.

This week, I spent an amazing evening at the UK premiere of 'Bill Cunningham New York', Richard Press's new documentary about the 80 year-old New York Times photographer. The event was sponsored by Grazia, and afterwards Paula Reed hosted a Q&A with Chris Moore, legendary catwalk photographer and owner of catwalking.com. His is a completely unique career which has seen him chart 'true' trends from the past half century. As well as paying attention to what's happening on the catwalks, Bill tirelessly scours the streets of NYC to discover what people are REALLY wearing and how they're wearing it. Many call him the original street style photographer. Although I think that's true, there's definitely much more to it than that which is why I am very happy to see the film's blurb describe him as a 'cultural anthropologist'. His observations are sharp and his knowledge of fashion and trends is encyclopaedic. His comparison of the work of Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garcons in the 80s with the style of the bag women living on the streets of New York at the time is still playing on my mind, and shows the unique position he is in to marry the pavement and the catwalk. The film is a must-see, even if fashion is not your thing. It's out at selected cinemas in March. 

Cunningham's fab picture of Isabella Blow (from lightbox.time.com)

Another month, another round of magazine covers. Elle and Vogue have both gone with Louis Vuitton's sugar sweet broderie anglaise for their fronts covers. Lana del Rey is Vogue's new cover girl demostrating the astonishing speed of her rise from unknown to virtually notorious; her newly released album has not received the best reviews yet she is number one in multiple countries. But if Vogue puts her on the cover then it confirms that there is something of the zeitgeist about her. Given that Love magazine editor Katie Grand also consults for Louis Vuitton, we thought ice cream girly prettiness was a given for the publication's latest edition. How wrong we were. The cover line reads 'The End of Elegance' which seems a direct challenge to the ladylike loveliness which is clearly the prevailing mood. Does this mean pastels might be as fleeting an obsession as Lana del Rey?

Lana (by Mario Testino) prettified for Vogue (image from www.vogue.co.uk) 

Linda Evangelista covers Love, shot by Mert and Marcus(image from @thelovemagazine)

Fragile: Linda Evangelista in Giles (image from @thelovemagazine)

FEAL is mostly about womenswear but that doesn't mean we don't appreciate a well-dressed man. Both of us think Tinie Tempah is a rather fab dresser so we are happy to see that he has been named Britains' Best Dressed Man by GQ. In other news from the list, Prince William didn't make it into the top 50 despite that bright red Irish guards wedding outfit. Wills, if you're upset at GQ's decision we suggest ditching the flat caps and 'cashmere jumper round shoulders' as starting points for sartorial transformation in time for next year, or ask your Dad who scraped in at no. 50.

Tinie does bow ties and monochrome (image from telegraph.co.uk)

After revelations about extravagant mid-recession halloween parties, we'd have thought the Obamas would be keen to avoid any more big spending sprees- not such great publicity in election year. So the story that Michelle paid a visit to the Madison Avenue branch of Agent Provocatuer and picked up $50,000 worth of goodies- lucky Barack- seems very unfortunate. She was apparently accompanying Sheikha Mozah, the Queen of Qatar, during her trip to the US last year. However, Jay Carney, the White House Press Secretary, strongly denied the story telling WWD:

'In this case, it’s utterly false, and it’s irresponsible of an American news organization to repeat the story, even allowing that it could be true. So it’s wrong.'

Apparently The White House was unable to provide 'evidence' that the First Lady had not visited the purveyors of sexy underwear- the mind boggles. While Michelle cannot be too pleased about the story, Agent Provocateur say the 'unexpected famous names' who patronise the business have contributed to its continued growth.

The Obamas are joined by Tim burton at their halloween do in 2009 (image from chicksontheright.com)

As part of the cultural programme to coincide with the Olympics, the BFC is hosting an International Fashion Showcase across London. Nineteen embassies and cultural institutes will showcase the work of up and coming designers from the countries they represent. Sarah Mower will be chairing a panel of judges which will examine the work of the 80 or so designers set to participate. On 19th February, a winning country will be announced. 

Belgian designer A.Knackfuss is set to be a highlight of the
showcase (image from mussola.style.it)

Finally, while we thought the images for Prada's SS12 campaign were a bit boring but the accompanying video, released this week, adds a bit more attitude to the concept, don't you think?

FROM EDITD: THE BUZZ TO KNOW FROM SS12

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Over the past month, we have been completely bombarded by images, tweets, reviews and blog posts from the SS12 shows. We've had a ball, but sometimes you need to pin down what's really important- what do people LOVE? What will we be wearing next season? Which brands are doing the right stuff to get themselves loved? And, most crucially, should I be channelling Little Mermaid or Mr Potato Head next season?

Theyskens' trousers for the city mermaid

We've blogged about our geeky appreciation of Editd before, but their SS12 report has really helped to focus our minds and given us an insight into the reality of next summer's fashion rather than just what has stuck with us because we, personally, love it or hate it. Really you MUST read it. I've extracted a few things which jumped out at me as fascinating/ baffling or any other adjective of great strength.

1. Yves Klein Blue

We noticed the blue, of course. I have also become a bit obsessed with Richard Nicoll's 'Laura Palmer' blue but I am also a big fan of Yves Klein blue which Editd have underlined as the key way blue was done. I'm so glad there are more imaginative names we can apply than dark blue. This hue was featured in 36 shows across all four fashion weeks, a key indicator that you'll be seeing more.

Yves Klein- Blue Monchrome, 1961. Image from moma.org

Diane Von Furstenburg SS12

Stella McCartney SS12

2. Florals

This print hit has been brewing for some time but the fact that it was seen in an astonishing  107 collections means we'll be flooded in flowers of all shapes, sizes and mainfestations next year. In my opinion it was London designers who pushed the boundaries here, taking quite a standard feature of a Summer collection and giving beautiful, innovative and surprising new leases of life.

Christopher Kane's sticker flowers

Erdem- flowers fit for a country garden

Mary Katrantzou- digi floral

3.Where is real online fashion buzz generated? Celine vs Chanel

Although fashion insiders might bang on about Alexander Wang and Celine being must-have labels, it seems the real excitement is still generated by the big players like Prada and Chanel who were by far the most popular in terms of the content they generated online over the past year. I suppose with their big budgets and massive product ranges (perfumes make a brand infinitely more accessible) this is not that surprising but you do wonder if there'll ever be a time when the balance could shift. 

Celine SS12

4. Getting Your Five A Day

After the success of the Prada banana for SS11, Dolce and Gabbana have got in on the food themed act by using vegetable prints in their collection. EditD say this is one of the key looks from the shows and so could become an overriding image of SS12.  As we've previously reported, a deep sea mythical world popped up across several key shows including Alexander McQueen and Chanel so actually next Summer might be more about mermaids than wearing your 5 a day. 

Dolce and Gabbana SS12

5. Retro Versus Feminine 

Flounces and ribbons made McQueen the epitome of femininity

Gucci's 20s references

Lastly, some of the stats are a bit confusing. Take 'retro' - this is stated as the top style as calculated by the sentiment and buzz it created - i.e there were lots of 60s and 20s inspired clothes. Fair enough. But then we're told that 80% of responses to retro styles were negative. Whereas 75% of reactions to feminine clothes were positive. What does it all mean? Only time will tell.
All images from catwalking.com
EditD.com

HOW WILL YOU WEAR YOUR GUIPURE?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Lace is nothing new on our fashion radar, in fact it is rarely off the agenda. For next Spring/Summer, there is a particular sort of lace which we have been seeing again and again on the catwalks. Let me introduce you to GUIPURE. This is a chunkier lace than the flippety, delicate pieces we might be used to. The technique for creating it is thought to originate from darning onto fishing net, which will give you some idea of the sturdier nature of this lace in comparison to, for example, a chantilly. The word guipure means a thick cord over which thread is twisted; guiper can mean 'to wrap' en francais. 

Thakoon SS12 

 Throughout New York and London, we heard the word guipure enough times for it to stick. And then Miuccia Prada used it as an overlay throughout her collection. This cements guipure's status as a key texture for SS12. It is also highly versatile- it can be used as a trim (as on hems at Clements Ribeiro), an overlay (see Thakoon and Prada) or in an entire garment (see the Preen pencil skirt below). We've also seen designers (like Clements Ribeiro's dress below) take the guipure lace pattern and print it onto garments. This achieves the same balance of prettiness and chunkiness with the fussiness of dealing with the lace itself. So, there is clearly no one way to work your guipure- we're excited to see its many manifestations next Spring/ Summer.

Clements Ribeiro SS12

Prada SS12

Prada SS12

Preen SS12

I cannot confirm that this IS guipure but it looks a lot like it to me, trapped between layers at Simone Rocha SS12

All images from catwalking.com