Wednesday, March 31, 2010


Karla Spetic
A/W 2010


Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Like I said earlier on Twitter, my dear Dad Mr. Robert "Roy" Rickey passed away last Friday. He wasn't ill, in fact he remembered to post my birthday card the night he died, before going to the pub (he was extremely sociable), and coming home to settle into his favourite chair and watch TV. He didn't see the morning, and died in his sleep. (I'll know why later today.) I'm OK with this. Not OK with the fact he was just 62; he would have turned 63 this Friday.

My feelings are up and down, but I've a handle on how grief operates having been through it before. One minute you can be laughing fondly about the person you have lost and then, as I did today, dissolve at the sight of a man walking down the street who, from a distance, could be him even when you KNOW it is not. It's irrational.

HOWEVER.  How can one reconcile grief with work and the work mindset? I've been mulling this over, and decided not to mull it over any more!  This - journalism, blogging, trending - is what I do, and I can no sooner disentangle my work mind for the matter at hand, as I can't not breathe. Not everyone could align themselves to this approach, but I know it is the Rickey Way and steeped in the DNA.  I will be digging up 'Dad Style Through the Years' in the next few days. He looked like a movie star when he was young.

Back to what has been on my work mind. Having digested the ENTIRE show season - my 300 page trend report is *humble cough* the most comprehensive of my career to date, and been declared a "triumph" by a colleague. I can safely report that the AW season represents a huge and positive change in the way we will be dressing. This change is what I am calling a return to "practical desires" (tm). Never have I wanted a camel jumper and pair of flared black trousers more than I do now.
So here, three long weeks after getting home from the shows, are the ten looks I just cannot get out of my head. These clothes represent the future fashion me. I will be dressing like this next season. In fact I think these ten outfits could see me through the entire winter -well, these and at least TEN jumpers, a Celine "classic" handbag, some yeti boots and a pair of kitten heels from Manolo. Thinking about winter is all too easy on this bleak, FREEZZZING day.


by Philosophy

by Celine (Pre-Collection)

by Bottega Veneta
    by Christopher Bailey for Burberry

by Dries Van Noten

by Julien Macdonald

                                                              by Behnaz Sarapfour

by Celine (Pre-Collection)
by Rochas

           by Peter Som (the coat of my dreams!)

Photo credits:

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

A Must-Take Class

The 2nd collection of Diana Rikasari for Bloop Endorse,
"Geometry Class"

available at:
Endorse Store, Jl. Tebet Utara Dalam No.5, Jakarta Selatan

See you all in class!


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Just when we thought we might finally get some respite from the great weight debate...

Porenza schouler AW10

These are just a small selection of the size related stories I've spotted over the past couple of weeks:

Marc Jacobs insists he didn't use 'curvier' models in his AW10 show as a means to comment on the industry's ultra-skinny fixation: 'It wasn't a statement on age, and it wasn't a statement about body shape'. (WWD)

Michael Kors vows not to employ models under the age of 16, Natalia Vodianova admits to developing anorexia after the birth of her child, and Anna Wintour calls on designers to reverse the 'tyranny of sample sizes that barely fit a 13-year-old on the edge of puberty' (The Cut)

Twiggy claims all she ever wanted was 'A fairy godmother to make me look like Marilyn Monroe. I had no boobs, no hips, and I wanted them desperately' (AP)

Debenhams introduces size 16 mannequins in a bid to be more representative of the average woman (Belfast Telegraph)

Precious star Gabourey Sidibe is snubbed by Vogue insider: 'She's a joke in the fashion community. What she wore on the red carpet at the Academy Awards wasn't a dress, it was a tent' (NY Daily News)

 You may even have seen French ELLE's plus size spread featuring the lovely Tara Lynn:

The question is how do you feel about it? New research from Arizona State University suggests that images featuring 'normal sized' women (whatever that really means) can actually make us feel worse about ourselves. The study divided women into three groups based on their Body Mass Index - underweight (below 18.5), normal (18.5 - 25), and overweight (25-30). The participants were then asked to evaluate their feelings whilst looking at adverts featuring models who ranged from very thin to very heavy. 

The women classified as overweight were unhappy whether they were looking at tiny models or heavier ones, feeling uncomfortably similar to the latter and upsettingly distant from the former. In contrast the underweight participants were (smugly) comfortable whatever image they were viewing.

More surprising perhaps were the results from the group with normal BMIs. These participants were consumed with anxiety when faced with the larger models, imagining themselves to be much more similar to these women than they were in reality. For some reason we feel better about ourselves looking at unfathomably thin models! (Perhaps it's down to a classic case of numbness through over-exposure. Like when an English character pops up in an American film and for some reason they sound foreign). This is a thought that has been plaguing me for a while now. For years we imagined that if only editors would agree to feature more realistically sized models we would all feel a whole lot better about ourselves. Now our wish has finally been granted, only to leave us just as dissatisfied as before.

Whilst I fully agree that the fashion industry should shoulder some responsibility (in my opinion the model at the top of this post is painfully ill-looking and was probably an irresponsible hire) it irks me when people (my mother included) try to position it as a big bad machine sucking up perfectly ordinary happy girls and spitting them back out as anorexics. Anorexia is a vicious, all consuming, life ruining mental disorder. Friends of mine who are sufferers have much greater demons at work in their minds than simply the desire to look like waif-era Kate Moss. There will always be people thinner and more beautiful, but if we can cultivate better self-esteem and a foundation of worth based on intelligence, independence and morals we should be able to view magazines as, in the words of Karl Lagerfeld, 'dreams and illusions'. 

Maybe it's ok that magazines don't reflect reality. They represent escapism and perfection which serve to energise and inspire readers - hopefully in a positive way.

Pic credits:,


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

When I was 15 I used to wear my Fashion Targets Breast Cancer t-shirt relentlessly (I think I was inspired by the troops of celebs showing their support for the cause on GMTV. Bit embarrassing really!). It's amazing to think that the t-shirt campaign - originally started by Ralph Lauren in memory of a close friend - has been going strong since 1996 and has raised over 10.5 million for Breakthrough Breast Cancer.

This year the Wear Your Support campaign has revamped the t-shirt formula, collaborating with Topshop, M&S, River Island, Whistles, and amongst others, to produce black and white themed pieces.

Warehouse, £25

Olivia Rubin,, £257

Whsitles, £75

Kylie was the perfect choice to front the campaign (shot by Mario Testino). She looks beautiful doesn't she?

30% of all sales will go to Breakthrough Breast Cancer, and you can get yours in store or online today.

Monday, March 29, 2010


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Business of Fashion ran a story on Marco Santaniello recently - a t-shirt designing blogger for MaxMara, who creates Rubik's Cube inspired illustrations of fashion industry figures. His pictures are really putting a sunshiny spin on my grey Monday.


Susie Bubble

Agyness Deyn

Anna Wintour

Become a fan of Marco on Facebook until his website gets up and running. Hmmmm.I wonder if he accepts commissions?

After going on about this or that fashion illustrator over the past few months I've finally decided to try it myself. I'm sure you've heard by now that the wonderful Sketchbook Magazine are throwing open the doors of their pop-up shop for a launch party tomorrow evening. Expect a multitude of talks and workshops from 31st - 19th April all held at number 10 Newburgh Street (W1). I've signed up for several events including a fashion illustration workshop taught by Gabriela Mot this Saturday at 12pm. Can't wait!

New issue of Sketchbook Mag

Click here for a list of all the goings on at the Sketchbook pop-up shop over the next few weeks, and be sure to reserve your place by emailing the team at 

Pic credits: Marco Santaniello courtesy of

Friday, March 26, 2010

Do Our Part

Don't forget to take part in..

on Saturday, March 27, 2010
8:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m (local time)

Let's take a stand to save our planet!


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I love this time of year. Not just because of the milder weather and longer lighter days but because it's one of those rare periods when you don't have to feel guilty about shopping. A complete wardrobe overhaul can be justified as an 'investment' for the season ahead. I've got my eye on these little 'investments' this spring:

(From top left)

1. Laser cut waterfall fronted leather jacket, ASOS, £120. I got this last week and I can't tell you how zzzexy and expensive it looks. Leather is sticking around as a major trend for AW as well, which makes it an even better investment.
2. Floral print leggings by Hermione De Paula, Browns, £120. Since seeing her first stand alone show this season and meeting Hermione herself backstage I've become a big fan. The girl knows how to make a great print.
3. Lace up suede ankle boot, Urban Outfitters, £55. Urban is one of the first places I head to for shoes. These navy booties with cream laces are high on my wish list.
4. 'Bad Bunny' jumper, French Connection, £45. 'Bad Bunny' must be the best garment name ever! Why is the bunny bad I wonder? This looks like a nice low-key Sunday afternoon in the pub jumper to me.
5. Jersey maxi dress, Full Circle, £50. Forget floaty bohemian long-length dresses, it's all about the jersey maxi this season.
6. Blush summer dress, Hoss Intropia, £171. Gorgeous on-trend colour and a shape that works whatever the occasion. I intend to picnic in this little dress come summer. Check out the new Hoss Intropia store in Covent Garden for impeccable service and lots more demure dress options.
7. Backless mule, River Island, £44.99. I never thought I'd see the day I wanted another clog (the last time I wore one I was 9. It was patent lime green. Hot huh?) but lo, that day is here. I love this clog's Fashion Junior friendly price as well.
8. Cats eye sunglasses by Luella, ASOS, £68. Not quite as amazing as the Alexander Wang ones, but a pretty close second. Cats eye is obviously the shape of choice for the season. A good 'investment' wouldn't you agree?

Thursday, March 25, 2010

100% Cool

I'm in looooveee with that hair...!!!!!

The National Campaign to Hire Artists to Work in Schools.

Check out The National Campaign to Hire Artists to Work in Schools. A national campaign for the public service employment of artists to work in schools and other community centers for economic stimulus, educational advancement and cultural enrichment.

Calling all artists, arts educators and advocates in all 50 states to convince the Obama Administration and Congress that this is a cost-effective, long-lasting, easy-to-start-up infrastructural investment and should be a significant part of the Jobs & Growth stimulus package now in development.

In the tradition of the WPA and CETA Arts when times were similarly tough. This is our window of opportunity. We've got our tools, our talent, passion, agility, hunger and commitment. 

Also see this interview of actor Peter Coyote talking about the virtues of public employment of artists and his experience with the CETA Arts Program and the State Arts Council.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Inside an unremarkable building in east London resides the Christian Louboutin press office. But as soon as you step through the door you notice red carpeted stairs. It's all looking a bit plusher. More like what you might expect from Louboutin.

It's the foot-wear label of most people's dreams, and when you picture a Louboutin shoe you probably picture a spindly sky-scraper heel don't you? I do. Or at least I did until I set eyes on the designer's AW10 collection and realised how much more he has to offer. 

The new look Louboutin heel

My favourite - thicker heel in electric blue

The Strictly Come Dancing shoe...Or is it Dancing On Ice? I don't know but you get the idea.

The unfathomably expensive shoe (each crystal / stud is attached by hand. Does that justify a price tag which is pushing £2000?)

 The trainers I might actually be able to work. (FYI they have the Louboutin trademark red sole)

The velvet lace-up - proving Christian Louboutin can make a flat as desirable as a 9 inch heel.

Right now on you can watch a video of the man himself tap dancing. We LOVE Fashionair, and 'Dancer in a Daydream' might just be their best video yet. Click through for 5 minutes of pure joy!


Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

This morning was one of those mornings where everything just comes together really neatly. I popped into the Mandi Lennard PR press day to have a ganders at AW10 Gareth Pugh and Roksanda Ilincic (both gorgeous up close) and emerged with a pair of Vivienne Westwood for Melissa shoes and a Barbie doll.

There are 12 dolls in the Barbie Basics range, and four different accessories packs to choose from. Meet Fashion Junior Barbie...

Long dark hair. Thick fringe...

Magazines, and (most importantly) a laptop. Make your own now on ASOS.

Next stop was the Christian Louboutin press day (more of which later) where I spied the Louboutin Barbie collection (complete with skinny ankles. In a recent interview the designer was quoted as saying 'I said to them that the one thing that could really give her perfection is to give a curve to her ankle. It's not like she's going to suffer for it'). The new red carpet Louboutin Barbie (in the booklet below) goes on sale soon.

Finally, on Mandi's recommendation, I headed to Selfridges to check out the Barbie pop-up store in the Wonder Room. Curator Sharmadean Reid (of WAH Nails), has assembled a cultural retrospective of black Barbie dolls. As a child of the 90s this was my favourite:

'Barbie and The Beat: In the wake of the 90s revival, this Barbie is very much a cultural icon of history in a time when black clothing and music started to become mainstream in America. The 1990s was a time for De La Soul, Fresh Prince of Bel Air, the movies of Spike Lee and Yo MTV Raps! and Barbie and the Beat reflects the adoption of black music and language into the homes of little girls everywhere. This Barbie looks very much like a Californian girl who could have had a cameo in Saved By The Bell' - Sharmadean Ried

There's also an entire wall of Barbies playing house:

(Check out Beyonce dancing up a storm on the telly)

These So In Style dolls (which are dressed in Rocawear by the way) were created by Stacey McBride-Irby - an African-American mother who wanted to make a collection of Barbie dolls that her daughters and community could relate to.

The dolls retail for £25 each and will hopefully be sold on Selfridges' new website at some point soon.