SS12: UNDER THE SEA

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

JW Waterhouse's The Mermaid. This season's collections are moving the image on

As one might expect from Spring/Summer collections, we have seen a myriad of references to all things seaside related during this fashion season; Mulberry took us on a seventies day out at the British beach, Daks (amongst others) was all fifties riviera, Craig Lawrence used sand as his starting point and Jonathan Saunders was all about Miami. But in Milan and Paris, some of the key collections have left the familiarity of the waterside and plunged to the mythical depths of the ocean to draw inspiration from sea creatures, shells and mermaids. 

Givenchy SS12

At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci served up a streetwise version of mermaid-ness. There was the irridescence of a pearl scattered seabed and a scaled effect which echoed a translucent ocean dweller but the addition of a blazer and flash of leg meant these did not descend into being unwearable back on dry land.

Givenchy SS12

At Versace, Donatella referenced her brother's signature baroque prints and presented a sexed up modern mermaid,who looks like she might be off to the Marine Bar to sit on a shell and scout out the sea horse talent.

Versace SS12

Versace SS12

Versace SS12

At Alexander McQueen, it was all about drawing comparison to the textures of coral and pearl for Sarah Burton. Padded hips and fishtails, not unfamiliar features of a McQueen collection, leant themselves to the creation of  a mermaid silhoutte. The lace caps, called fetishistic by some, emphasise the other worldly, sea bed effect.

Alexander McQueen SS12

Alexander McQueen SS12

Alexander McQueen SS12- This looks like it's slicked in sea water

Finally, at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld drew on one of the house's most important symbols, the pearl, and paid homage to its oceanic origins not only in the clothes but also on the pure white, ocean floor set. The pièce de résistance was Florence Welch, singing from inside a giant clam shell, 2012's incarnation of the Mermaid fantasy. 

Chanel SS12

Chanel's ocean floor set at the Grand Palais

Florence serenades the audience from her shell stage as the models encircle the set, spines encrusted with pearls.

All images, aside from The Mermaid (from JWWaterhouse.com), from Catwalking.com

THE AW11 CAMPAIGNS WE LOVE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The arrival of the BIG September issues has finally brought together the slow trickle of campaign images which have been released throughout the Summer. The excitement these ads create is a sensation in itself, especially if they feature a notably young/ famous/ odd person (delete as appropriate). They also bring the brand's new fashion message to the masses. Basically, they're kinda significant, but you knew that already, right? But which ones are actually doing their job and drawing us in?
Here are our top picks....
1. MIU MIU
Miu Miu's decision to use fourteen year-old Hailee Steinfeld provoked rather a lot of debate when it was announced. Although using very young models or actresses is by no means confined to Miu Miu, we were interested to see the direction they would take with the pictures - would they try to make her look like an adult? Or, would the brand play it charmingly tongue-in-cheek and show Hailee simply enjoying the best game of dressing- up EVER? Judging by the latest Bruce Weber shots to be released, they went for the utterly charming approach...

Miu Miu sequins- just what every young girl wears to pop out for a pizza. 

Awwww. Not so much a snow angel, as a shoe angel

This is rather sad. Like nobody will play any more.

I am no photography expert, but to my amateur eye these images look just a touch soft at the edges, which gives them an even more innocent allure. It's almost as if they were taken spontaneously to capture a precious moment of a little girl growing up, by a parent or relative. In reality, they are the result of careful styling, will create millions in revenue and appear in some of the most expensive advertising spaces on the planet. So, I am taking my proverbial fedora off to Miu Miu for creating this adorable effect.

2. MULBERRY
Mulberry continues the slightly whimsical, childish theme with its Fantastic Mr Fox themed campaign. This is unmistakably the work of Tim Walker, tricking the eye as the page is turned to reveal bemused models and their Mulberries dwarfed by giant foxes and owls and other woodland curiosities. To recreate this effect for yourself, simply get you and your favourite bag down to the Southbank Centre where the supersized straw fox will provide the perfect prop!

A Taylor bag - seen above in large and small versions - and a pretty pleat is all you need for Mulberry themed country high jinks

3. PROENZA SCHOULER 
Proenza Schouler have chosen to underline their particular take on the print story which continues into this season by framing Zuzanna Bijoch's poses for Willy Vanderperre with graphic, simplified echoes of the patterns on the clothes. I love that this campaign is really just all about the clothes and the ideas behind them. Pared back and stark.

An exquisite autumnal palette

4. BALENCIAGA
Balenciaga, shot by Steven Meisel, gives us the juxtaposition of old and new- Nicholas Ghesquiere's sharp, modern pieces are worn in a convent- like setting, and then in a super futuristic, pristine cube. We are particularly seduced by the smokey surrounds and sharp architecture of the 'old' images. Balenciaga's subliminal message seems to be 'these clothes can worn anywhere, as long as it's as chic as they are'.

Balenciaga looking sharp

5. CHANEL
How could we not include these mega-cute Chanel images- a collaboration between a trio of the most-wanted people in fashion, Carine Roitfeld, Freja Beha Erichssen and King Karl himself (who took the photos). The FashEd is particularly enamoured by the shot of Freja looking a little dishevelled with a message scribbled in eyeliner across her forehead. My favourite is the extremely feline whisker and flowers-for-ears combination. Again you can recreate the look for yourself by popping to your local photobooth armed with eyeliner and/or some cat ears, easy!

6. GIVENCHY
While Mulberry takes us on a woodland romp, Givenchy prefers a more exotic rainforest-esque setting. Mariacarla Boscono is cast as a kooky bird of paradise, holding court in her den of sumptuous print and colour.

Givenchy shot by Mert and Marcus

7. MARC JACOBS

This post would not be complete without a mention of our unmitigated delight at Helena Bonham Carter's teaming up with Marc Jacobs and his long-time collaborator Juergen Teller. An absolute stellar choice of ambassador for Marc's AW dottiness. 

A lesson from Helena- You don't have to be a 14 year-old to make fashion fun.

And last but not least, we love this slightly skinny, suitably stubbly indie boy, with his luscious mop of hair, hanging out in his Diesel pants.

 Images courtesy of FashionGoneRogue.com, Diesel.

GO RICCARDO!?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Mr Tisci

The job of head designer at Givenchy is, traditionally, the "in-waiting" job for when a post at Dior comes up. John Galliano was drafted into Dior from Givenchy in 1996, that was when Alexander McQueen got the job at Givenchy. Such a long time ago.....

If what I hear coming out from very well placed sources in Paris is true, today Riccardo Tisci, the 35 year old Saint Martins trained, Madonna-loving Italian Roman Catholic boy from Givenchy is to be placed as the creative director at Christian Dior.

Part of me hopes its not true; I love what Tisci has been doing at Givenchy since 2005, when he arrived a virtual unknown and showed Givenchy collections that revealed his preoccupation with gothic romanticism, crucifixes, and playful S&M references and cartooons. That he understands women, and creates a powerful femininity is a given: this is a gay Italian man, with eight - yes EIGHT - sisters. I remember interviewing him when he had just completed a wardrobe for Madonna's Sticky & Sweet tour in 2008 and he talked effusively about how his sisters inspired him, and how he was not frightened of feminine strength. He sure knows how to make a woman look strong. And how to make a man who wants to be a woman (his former assistant Leo is now a transgender supermodel named Lea T) look dignified and wonderful.

His Haute Couture presentation in January was incredible to behold in close-up, with workmanship blending the modern and ancient technique. In turn his couture provided, for me, the best Oscar dress on Cate Blanchett and Grammy dress on Florence Welch for 2011.  Tisci at Givenchy makes a lot more sense than Alber Elbaz. Alber is perfection itself at Lanvin. It would be a travesty to take him away from the house. Givenchy on the other hand can take another bout of reinvention. Maybe from my personal tip for the Dior job, a certain Mr Peter Copping.  

The rumour mill suggests we should expect an announcement after Miu Miu finishes this afternoon, in time for the nightly TV news, and just before tired editors hang up their BlackBerrrys, iPhones and laptops for a couple of days rest as the month-long fashion marathon comes to an end. 

I'm not betting on it. I reckon LVMH should let this guessing game last a bit longer. After all, there are legal requirements in French employment law that mean a lot more hoops needs to be jumped through before Galliano's contract is officially dissolved. With John Galliano away at a rehab facility (as I have heard from close sources) this story does have a while to run.

If John successfully argues (as I have also heard on the rumour mill) that he was mentally ill, and sick from his alcoholism and medications at the time of his anti-Semitic rant then he may have a legal case of his own.  

ANYWAY: this all adds up to wonderful fashion drama and gossip, exactly what any dyed in the wool fashionista such as myself and my colleagues were put on this earth to report on.

Watch this space!

FLORENCE IN GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE....

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

On my return journey from Paris after the Spring/Summer 2011 catwalk shows in Paris, I bumped into Giles Deacon and his design team in the buffet car of the Eurostar. They were unwinding following his Ungaro debut and much merriment was occurring. Much of it involving a toy lamb. Some if it involving a jumper worn by Bistroteque co-founder David Waddington.  (I recorded it on Twitter - see "Florence + the Sheep".)  One of the highlights of this journey came when Florence (onboard with her stylist/friend Aldene Johnson) said "hi" to Giles, then in a whisper to Aldene (which I overheard) she sighed "My Paris is complete now." That made me think ahhhh what a doll. She is such a fashion fan, and gets excited about the shows and meeting designers, exactly what any other 24 year old fashion-fan would do. Just that she is well, Florence Welch. This happening made me feel really pleased for the fact she got to wear this most incredible Givenchy Haute Couture dress to the Grammy's last night. She didn't win a Grammy, but she had the best dress on by miles.

If meeting Giles set her pulse racing, imagine what wearing this did to her! That Florence posed to display both the intricate front-view and beautiful highly-worked back vista indicates she may be following instructions from Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci. At the presentation in Paris a few weeks ago the garment was displayed in still life, and photographed with both back view and front view - why? Beacuse hand-work of this nature is almost extinct in fashion, and needs to be shown, that's why.

"Long dress in nude stretch tulle embroidered in front with matt sequins in shades of pale beige and behind with vermillion coloured geometric hand cut sequins and glass tubes"

Photos: courtesy of Givenchy Couture

INTENSELY CLOSE, IMPOSSIBLY BEAUTIFUL: GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy was having none of that fashion show malarkey this season. This designer marked his tenth couture collection for the house by casting aside the fashion show format altogether. Tongues wagged at first – financial trouble? Loss of confidence? Nope. He wants to show off.

Haute Couture is best viewed in close-up. How else to appreciate the 1000 hours of embroidery in a single gown? A fashion show can’t do this, as well Tisci knows, so his alternative was fabulously logical: face time with the clothes with all the detail you could want about the work. Voila – surely the future way to show couture?

Within an exquisite four room apartment at the historic Hotel d'Evreux on Place Vendome he showed ten looks suspended from sleek steel beams and beautifully day-lit to highlight the thousands of hours of work. These were clothes for hard-bodied women with millions in the bank, major events to attend and the confidence to wear either pure white, pale blush or blinging gold. No black in this collection!

Tisci loosely worked with two themes: the Mexican Day of the Dead tradition – and all its associated humorously macabre nick-nacks from skeletons to skulls and his favourite symbol, the crucifix – and the passions of Frida Kahlo.

I loved the humour of his bodysuit in blush tulle, sheer bar for the lace appliqué delicately mapping out a human skeleton. A 100% gold crystal studded gown Tisci developed from the dress he created for Lara Stone when she married David Walliams was also present. Most beautiful was the thickly fringed sculptural jackets – a Givenchy jacket is a thing of wonder. You don’t see shoes that appear to have been dipped in porcelain everyday, or sculptural rings resembling vertebrae made from solid silver and dipped in alabaster (below). Of course it was all utterly magnificent to behold.

The best factoid of the entire visit, though, was news that Riccardo Tisci’s former male PA, is now a female model called Lea T, who is currently much in demand on the high fashion circuit. Lea is in the group picture below that was the last stop on the Givenchy couture tour. Can you tell which one she is?

I guessed straightaway, only because she was the only model I didn't instantly recognise. This then made me think - what hope would a non-fashion person have picking the man among these amazonians?


To read more on Lea T's inspiring story click, here for a Guardian interview; here for a Huffington Post round-up on Lea T media, and here for a more in-depth story about living as a transexual, or with gender dysphoria. Also check out this website, if you want to take your studies further.

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large