NEW TALENT: LEUTTON POSTLE

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle at FEAL HQ

This post has been a long time coming. Ever since the autumn, Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle have been regular visitors to FEAL HQ,  coming to show us how they were progressing with their AW12 collection and getting advice from the FashEd who always loves to see what new designers are up to.  We've seen the evolution of their ideas from experiments with their quite astounding textiles techniques, into the formation of the collection which was shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the very last evening of London Fashion Week.

A FEAL favourite- the reverse appliqué jacket

The Leutton Postle studio where knitters are constantly hard at work

I'm only in my second season working in fashion, so it's been great to see young designers at every stage from initial thoughts and experiments to showcasing the finished collection in the VFS showroom in Paris. They also helped me out with a talk I recently did about knitting, and how young designers like themselves are pushing the thinking about what can be done with what is sometimes seen as a 'traditional' technique. In fact, that's what Sam and Jenny are all about- they use crafts and look at making them new and right for now. They are sort of the antithesis to the girls who hand knit vintage 1950s patterns of cutesie little jumpers and cardigans.  

Up close: the reverse appliqué technique which runs through Sam and Jenny's work. 

Another of the techniques used by Leutton Postle: E wrapping

For AW12, a face motif became the anchor of the collection. There were 3D knits, with chunky plaits popping out and cascading towards the floor, as well as more abstract reverse appliqué dresses and trousers. On close inspection, you see the faces peeping out at you, and it's a little bit haunting and very clever. For the show, some of the models even wore face masks, just to hammer home the strong theme.  On a visit to their studio a month before the show, Sam and Jenny showed me the mood boards they were working with. There were images of tribal crafts and patterns, face painting as well as colour palettes and scraps of hand knitting experiments. Among their 'inspirational women' were Princess Diana and Camilla Batmanghelidijh. Camilla would look amazing in a piece of Leutton Postle. 

Mood boards in the Leutton Postle studio

Shoes by Chris Delapena for AW12

The face masks used in the show, which was styled by Ellie Brown (image from www.retoxmagazine.com)

Leutton Postle AW12 (image from www.retoxmagazine.com)

Leutton Postle AW12 (image from www.retoxmagazine.com)

The absolute best thing about what Leutton Postle is the creative potential of their pieces, which makes them perfect for visually stunning editorials. If we were doing shoots, we'd be calling in Leutton Postle knits, trousers and dresses all the time. As the images below show, the tufts of wool, beautiful fabric combinations and off beat decoration (we loved that they combined gold tinsel and pom pom yarn in their AW12 knits) photograph fabulously. We're pretty sure that all the coolest, most creative women in London will be wearing Leutton Postle before too long.

This image and above from Idol magazine SS12

Leutton Postle in Phoenix, March 2012

Leutton Postle in Bstore magazine

 Browns obviously think the duo are onto something too because they've bought pieces from Leutton Postle ever since Jenny's graduation collection from the Central Saint Martin's MA course a year ago. If you're not sure about going all sugar sweet, girly pastel for SS12 then Sam and Jenny's super bright, hand crafted pieces could be a just the cool alternative you've been looking for...

Hand crafted applique trousers £415 at Browns

Knitted top £355 at Browns

Knit dress £1,245 at Browns

BEHIND THE SCENES AT MASC STUDIOS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Not many designers score their very own display in the window of a world famous department store in their first season, but that is exactly what happened to MASC duo Duncan Shaw and Billy Yick. After being approached at September’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition , the designers were given just three weeks to turn around the pieces which ended up being seen by hundreds of thousands of people passing the Oxford Street store.  They also saw their collection sold through the Bright Young Things pop-up shop which accompanied the windows. In fact, their pieces are still available to buy online from Selfridges, as well as at Young British Designers

MASC designers Duncan Shaw and Billy Yick

One of the wing-pleat dresses from  MASC SS12

How do you follow that? For MASC, the answer is a luxurious AW12 collection entitled ‘Shadow Box’. The colours and shapes of this collection have been informed by the film ‘In the Mood for Love’  which Duncan says has a ‘60s mandarin aesthetic- it’s dark and poetic’. Where the SS12 collection used wings to create the silhouette (dresses with fitted bodices jutting into angular pleats), this time it is the rectangle  which forms the basis of each piece.

The MASC AW12 collection on a rail

One of the mood boards featuring Japanese pattern cutting and other references from the East

 Duncan and Billie both studied at Nottingham Trent, graduating in 2007. After they’d finished, Duncan took up an offer to study at the Institut Francais de la Mode in Paris- he was the only British graduate in the intake. Billie followed him there. ‘Our time in Paris still has a huge influence on our work’ Duncan says, pointing out a Halston style 70s shot on the mood board with the caption ‘Nuits de Paris’.  These two seem so calm and are so clearly completely in sync- they describe how they work on the same mannequin, taking one half each and eventually blending their two creations into a MASC piece.

Another mood board- textured mandarin collared dresses, glamorous night time shots and mysterious corners.

 Where the first collection comprised just two colours and was made up mostly of dresses, the AW12 has a more comprehensive palette (maroon, navy, bright red, cream…) and a foray into different textures with ribbed wool, suede and an innovative material which is printed, glazed and laser cut to create a feather-like effect.

 And it doesn’t stop there; the structured scarves are super cool, with their trailing tails and upturned collars. Alongside these, there are leather belts with folded back ends so the smooth and  rough sides of the leather are next to one another- Duncan makes these himself. The pair are very proud that each item is made in London, with materials sourced from English mills and specialist factories here and in Italy. 

The structured scarf

The double mandarin collar dress (image by Phill Taylor)

Belts made by Duncan

MASC have also expanded their horizons for AW12 by including trousers (one slim leg, one wide leg style) and coats in the collection. They are passionate about getting the cut exactly right. They have a dedicated pattern cutter, Alice, working with them to perfect the process.  The outerwear is a key  part of the  ‘armoured elegance’ philosophy which underpins everything Duncan and Billie do.  There are a couple of short- length shrug on jackets as well as more substantial pieces in amazingly soft mohair- Duncan calls it ‘plush’ and I couldn’t find a better word myself!  Zip makers YKK have been  collaborating with the pair so there are chunky zipped pockets on the coats and also running down the back of dresses . 

Alice the pattern cutter altering pieces in the run up to the VFS exhibition

Split details on one of the coats

My favourite piece from the collection- the coat dress

Different colours and fabric trims have been used on opposing pockets- ‘We knew the collection was very symmetrical’ say Duncan ‘so we decided to break that up a bit by not matching each side on the pockets’. Thus, on the sleeveless coat dress (above and below), one pocket is red while the other is navy.

The coat dress contrasted against the dark wood walls at The Town Hall Hotel (image by Phill Taylor- www.philltaylor.com)

The look book, shot by Phill Taylor, brings the collection back to its initial starting point, that dark Chinese film ‘In the Mood For Love’. ‘We chose The Town Hall Hotel (in East London) because it reminded us of the hotel in the film- all the dark walls. It was the perfect setting for showing off everything we’ve created’ Duncan told me.  

If the shots tickle your fancy then you should pop along to see MASC’s collection up close.

 You can visit them at The Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, on until Wednesday, at Freemasons’ Hall, 60, Great Queen Street, WC2B  5AZ. Alternatively, they’ll be at the VFS Paris showrooms from Thursday March 1^st to Tuesday March 6^th at 18, Rue de 4 Fils, 75003. 

A SNEAK PEAK AT MANUELA DACK AW12

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Manuela Dack is a woman on a mission, with a clear vision carrying her label- which she began after graduating from Middlesex in 2010- from the rack of beautifully crafted pieces which represented her SS12 collection towards a brand offering everything from bespoke commissions to jewellery and small leather pieces. Her lady likes classic, beautiful fashion, with a contemporary edge which Manuela seems to be nailing fast. 

Manuela at her studio

I first met Manuela at the SS12 Vauxhall Fashion Scout, back in September. I was immediately taken with her soft colours and beading details which all seemed very accomplished for a label which was only on its second collection. I wasn’t surprised that The Shop at Bluebird decided to buy up lots of the light as air column dresses in fresh ivory and mint green.  Earlier this week, I went to visit the 25 year-old at her East London studio to take a sneak peek at the AW12 collection which went on show today at the VFS exhibition.

One of the most popular SS12 pieces, a stingray leather print dress £820 at Avenue 32

Grey sweatshirt and wool skirt from Manuela Dack AW12

Navy tee with foil print, inspired by wood carvings

 Manuela’s designs have always been influenced by her childhood growing up in the Cayman Islands (see the stingray dress, above), as well as her family’s interest in interior design.  However, for an Autumn/ Winter collection, incorporating those elements from warmer climes is perhaps not such a straightforward task. One of the stand out pieces is a short suede dress. A panel of suede, laser cut into an  intricate pattern and backed by bright cyan blue and orange Batik fabric runs down the front. It’s sexy for sure, but also a clever way to incorporate the more summer-orientated elements of Manuela’s references into an A/W collection.

The skirt made using the same techniques and Manuela's signature stepped up hem

The AW12 mood boards

 I also visited Manuela just before Christmas. Then, she showed me lots of images of wood carvings which she’d been looking at.  I get the sense that Manuela's obsession with interiors and furniture might eventually lead her to becoming a complete lifestyle brand.

For now, those mood boards have developed into the laser cut effect which appears throughout the collection, mostly on suede skirts and dresses, but also on a grey sweatshirt where the jersey cut out has been backed with chiffon to create a luxe-sport effect.  This sits alongside another  beautifully cut grey sweatshirt- both are a new foray into a more casual aesthetic.

One of the collection's two sweatshirts

Manuela comments that the whole collection has ‘the same elements as Spring’ but it’s ‘stricter, more like a uniform with lots of angles and layering’. Stepped- up hems on skirts and dresses are becoming a signature of Manuela’s work.  As well as the Batik, foil effect leather which twinkles through the carved panels makes an appearance.

Christina Smith shooting the AW12 look book 

When you speak to Manuela, you can’t help but be excited about where her label is going.  She already has a store on Avenue 32, but she is also planning to have her own e-commerce store where her fans can pick up jewellery, scarves and leather goods which she is currently developing.  She already does belts which she tells me are selling really well. For AW12, there is one crafted from thermocromatic leather so that it changes colour as you touch it.

Manuela's belts

Like many designers Manuela also notes that “Made in Britain’ is a key appeal of her clothes. After noting that is was the more expensive pieces of her collection which sold best, Manuela began to realise that she was tapping into a market which wanted a unique, keep forever investment piece. To that end, she will begin offering a bespoke service where clients can use the look book as a ‘menu’ for their orders, perhaps changing a colour/ fabric/ length here and there as they like.

There's a lot going for on for Manuela. Ultimately though, she is adamant that anything she does, she must be do ‘really, really well’.  This woman is a perfectionist, and nowhere is that more clear than in her beautiful clothes.

If you want to take a closer look at Manuela's AW12 collection, you can visit here at The Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, on until Wednesday, at Freemasons’ Hall, 60, Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AZ. Alternatively, she’ll be at the VFS Paris showrooms from Thursday March 1st to Tuesday March 6th at 18, Rue de 4 Fils, 75003.

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT- ARE THEY REALLY ONES TO WATCH?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

London is indisputably the home of young design talent- this is a city which, through its amazing educational institutions (Central St Martins, London College of Fashion, Royal College of Art etc.) and funding initiatives, nurtures young talent which then goes global- if Giles does end up going to Vuitton as some think may be the case now that he has ended his work with Ungaro (and if Marc goes to Dior- so many ifs!) then he will be the latest in a long line of British designers to be at the helm of major fashion houses.

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout is one of the ways that young designers are being supported. Yesterday I went along to their graduate showcase at Freemason's hall  to see whether these really could be future design stars.I have two favourites who I'll tell you about first. These are not from the main Ones to Watch show which showcased Alice Lee, Phoebe English, Shao Yen and Malene Oddershade Bach.

Manuela Dack

Manuela Dack, a graduate of Middlesex, had some beautiful sheer fabrics with beaded fringing panels. Her colour palette was a very fresh mix of mint green, cream and grey with some orange pops in the beaded bits- the sum of this was extremely wearable, beautifully ladylike pieces so I am not surprised that The Shop at Bluebird, the cool yummy-mummy department store destination on King's Road, has snapped her up. Just as important as the clothes is the personality behind them and when I met Maunela she was charming, switched-on and passionate about her collection. It is useful too for Manuela that her clothes fit the prevailing fashion mood which is chic and feminine and not too OTT.

Manuela Dack

Images from manueladack.com

My other top pick was Masc, the label from Duncan Shaw and Belinda Yick. The duo graduated from Nottingham Trent in 2007. Since then, Duncan has completed the Institut Francais de la Mode's Masters in Fashion Design programme in Paris. They began Masc in 2011 so have some perspective on the realities of the design world compared to those fresh from their courses which seems to me no bad thing at all.

Masc

Belinda was  a wonderful model for their collection which was inspired first of all by the wings of an aeroplane- I think one of my favourite things about fashion is learning where an idea orginates for a designer and how they progress. That industrial shape was in evidence throughout Masc's collection, whether it was a group of wing shapes combined to form a striking, angular skirt shape or a single pleat at the back of a skirt. Just as with Manuela, these guys are switched on and likeable, certainly not on an arty cloud nine. The colours were minimal to say the least, with just black and flesh on offer for the current collection so the focus really is completely upon the structure and silhouette. Their shapes are angular but still uber flattering and right for all kinds of women. I hope some canny buyers snap them up soon.

Images from Masc

Other highlights:

Stephanie Grace Foy

Stephanie Grace Foy SS12 (Styled by Lauren Eva, Model Linnea Landan, Photographer Miss Aniela, asst, Matt Lenard, MUA Rachel O'Donnell)

Yasmin Kianfar

Yasmin Kianfar

 I suppose it's the nature of young designers but it seems to me that there's not THAT much to any of these collections. There are maybe three or four beautiful pieces. So then it's all about the potential which is shown in those few examples. That's quite a lot of pressure. 

Great prints also from Anna Lee, who was inspired by Ophelia and the ocean.

Anna Lee

And from the Ones to Watch show:

Phoebe English-

Phoebe English

This coat from Shao Yen is my top overall piece from the whole exhibition. Beautiful. 

Shao Yen- Fun, playing with textures, versatile but still very elegant.