THE WEEK IN FASHION: 28th NOVEMBER- 2nd DECEMBER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

This week's news begins with some of our favourite editorial images released in the past few days...
Italian Vogue Editor-in-Chief Franca Sozzani has been shot by Terry Richardson and styled by Katie Grand for the cover on Industrie, the magazine which charts the lives of fashion's insiders.

Editor becomes model

Kate Moss is transformed into Ziggy Stardust for French Vogue's Music issue. Shot by Mert and Marcus.

Image from telegraph.co.uk

Resident Italian Vogue photographer Steven Meisel has captured Karlie Kloss in a series of nude and clothed contrasted images for the publication's January issue. Entitled 'Body by Kloss' , it's making us think twice before delving into the mince pies...



Images from fashiongonerogue.com

 Transsexual model Lea T has scored her first major cover this month with Elle Brazil.  She is dressed in Givenchy as designed by her good friend Riccardo Tisci.

When you work in the fashion industry, it soon becomes clear how many unspoken heroes there are behind the scenes; beautiful clothes cannot be created by one person alone although it is often easy to slip into that way of thinking when designers are superstars. Francois Lesage was one of those behind the scenes people. His death this week came after a long illness. However, Monsieur Lesage should be remembered for his fine mastery of haute couture embroidery. He leant his expertise to the creation of couture at the most esteemed Parisian houses including Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel and Givenchy. In 2002, Chanel bought Maison Lesage in order to guarantee the survival of its unique contribution. French Cultural Minister Frédéric Mitterand told WWD this week: “He was one of those people who make you aware of the slim border between art and craft. He was also known for his generous spirit and waggish humour.”

RIP Francois Lesage.

Work by Maison Lesage- Yves Saint Laurent 1988

As our friends at Editd so astutely point out, the Versace x H&M collaboration has had huge effects across the world of fashion and had a huge uplift in social media awareness for Versace and Donatella. We have definitely seen how lots of the SS12 high street collections have been 'inspired' by the line, of which there's more to come in January. For their next partnership, H&M have chosen a much more fashion-insider brand, Marni.

Although editors frequently sing the praises of the label designed by Consuelo Castiglioni, it does not have the fame and brand power of Versace. Lots of people were pointing out on Twitter when the news broke on Monday that Marni would probably be confused with Armani by those who didn't know better! The collection which as with Versace majors on print, launches on March 8th. We expect rather a different queue to those Versace ones the other week.

Marni's designer Consuelo Castiglioni and H&M's Margareta van den Bosch
 style a model wearing a dress from the collection
 (image from vogue.co.uk)

I had a dig at Dame Vivienne Westwood a few weeks ago for what I perceived as her hypocrisy at launching stores in China and then supporting OCCUPY London. So, I was very pleased to hear this week that she has donated £1 million from her business to Cool Earth, a climate change charity which is campaigning to halt deforestation in Borneo, Peru and the Congo Basin. Westwood said  'Governments…are so slow that we can’t wait for them any more. We have to get this thing moving and hope that they’ll join in'.

It's no fun being extinct, says Vivienne Westwood

After winning Red Carpet Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards on Monday, Stella McCartney was happy to hand the limelight to Jennifer Saunders (in full Edina get-up) on Tuesday as she turned on the lights at Stella's Bruton Street store. Ever since the very first images of the forthcoming Ab Fab episodes were released, we've known that Eddie has transferred her Lacroix fixation to much a more now Stella addiction. Later, we learnt that Stella is going to be making a cameo appearance in one of the episodes, the first of which airs on Christmas Day. Oh we feel spoilt! And to whet your appetite for Ab Fab's return, a little teaser clip was released this week... Enjoy!

'Eddy' with Stella and Emma Bunton who both star in
the new episodes (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Next week, Thirty Seven Feet , a new designer shoe hire concept, will be launching with a pop-up shoe emporium at the Old Truman Brewery to raise funds for charities such Small Steps and Muscular Dystrophy. There will be a launch event on Thursday evening which you can get tickets for by visiting the site. There are loads of exciting items up for grabs including pieces previously owned by celebrities and donated by top brands like Mulberry and Lanvin. We here at FEAL encourage you to pop along to make some purchases, all in the name of charity.

SHOPPING ROUND-UP...December is traditionally the time for many things, one of them is FASHION SAMPLE SALES. The FashEd tells me that they are not always great but if you get there early and with sharpened elbows you may get what you want. Here are a few we recommend.

On 8th December, creator of utterly divine shoes, Nicholas Kirkwood, will be holding a sample sale. Prices start at £25 (!) and doors are open from 10am. Be sure to get down to The Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane to get your hands on some beauties.

Nicholas Kirkwood SS12- sadly these won't be at the sample sale but
items of similar fabulousness will be available

Barberini Fashions will be having a sample sale on 9th December (12pm-8pm) and 10th 
December (10pm-6pm) at Unit 7, Suna House, 65 Rivington Street. Some of the brands
 there include Pam Hogg, Ashley Isham and Magenta 8. 

Erdem SS11 (image from catwalking.com)

LFW darling Erdem has a sample sale on December 8th (1pm-8pm) and December 9th (10am-6pm) at The Future Gallery, 5 Great Newport Street, WC2H 7HY. Prices start at £80 and the pieces will be from SS11 and before.

LFW darling no.2 Christopher Kane is getting in on the action too with a sale on 8th December from 1pm to 9pm at Mercer Street Studios, 16 Mercer Street, WC2H 9QE.  Bring it on!

To see a full list may we direct you over to Susie Bubble's sample sale calendar.

OP ED: HYPOCRITE CHIC?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The protesters of OCCUPY London have been causing quite a stir since they set up camp in Paternoster Square, outside St. Paul's cathedral a few weeks ago. I must say that as a fashion journalist, I didn't really think there would be anything to report on, style wise, from the fracas. After all, from what I can gather, these people are broadly anti-capitalist, given that they claim our 'current system is undemocratic and unjust' and that would suggest to me that any kind of fashion story would involve the sandals and dreadlocks to be spotted out on the Square. That's just me stereotyping though.

 

So, I was somewhat surprised to open Monday's Evening Standard and find one of these ardent supporters of OCCUPY, Lucy McKay (aka Lucy Brisbane, apparently) modelling the latest peace sign leggings from Topshop topped with a peace sign sweater. The headline reads 'Radical Chic' and discusses all the coolest protest-appropriate fashion options.Now, if you are protesting about the inequalities which the current system operates under then I would imagine that one of your first priorities would be to not wear Topshop, given all the tax avoidance accusations regularly pointed at Phillip Green, who is surely the ultimate capitalist?

Amongst the comments beneath the article online, one person writes 'Lucy, you are wearing Topshop. Where are your morals?'. In a weak retaliation to her critics, Lucy says 'It's a fluffy fashion piece'. Is she trying to say that we can separate our fashion preferences from our political beliefs? That's an easy thing to do, but not something you might expect from a member of such a stalwart group of a few hundred who claim to be representing the best interests of 99% of us.  It may have been somewhat more understandable if Lucy had modelled some fabulous ethical fashion, made in conditions which adhere to the changes she is campaigning for.

By calling it 'fluffy fashion' Lucy hugely undermines her raison d'etre at OCCUPY London. These days the clothes we choose to wear represent a belief system. So, in the same breath as protesting against capitalism, she is personally encouraging it (and financing it) with her choice of clothes. Someone bring her a sack.   

Dame Westwood is well know for her passionate views, but does she put them before her business interests? (image from elleuk.com)

After this, I noticed that Dame Vivienne Westwood had visited the St Paul's camp to show her support. I do admire Dame Vivienne, and a lot of what she says is certainly thought provoking. But I couldn't fail to notice that she'd just got off a plane from China where she had been to launch her new shops over there. Basically, one day she was doing what every savvy business owner is doing right now, ensuring they are tapping into the vast potential of a Chinese customer base, thus growing their own business and increasing their own revenues; the next she is showing solidarity with the very people who are campaigning for a change to that very system.

I don't proclaim to be any sort of expert on any of these matters; I am very interested in politics and am concerned about  our current economic woes which often seem incomprehensibly profound and far-reaching. So I have certain sympathies with what OCCUPY seems to stand for, although nobody seems to be completely clear on exactly what that is. I am also seduced by fashion on a daily basis but know that there is a lot wrong with where we get our clothes from. Living an OCCUPY version of life is hard to envisage, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't involve wearing Topshop or big business expansions. Lucy and Dame Vivienne are doing the cause they are allegedly supporting no favours whatsoever.

HERE IS THE OCCUPY LONDON MANIFESTO

'Occupy London stands together with occupations all over the world; we are the 99%. We are a peaceful non-hierarchical forum. We're in agreement that the current system is undemocratic and unjust. We need alternatives; you are invited to join us in debate and developing them; to create a better future for everyone'

THE WEEK IN FASHION 13TH JUNE-17TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large
Additional research by Bethan Holt

Here's our weekly round up of the goings on in fash-land over the past five days. While most of the fashion press have been obsessing over the resort collections (more on those to come!) these were the news stories that caught our eye this week.We kick off, fittingly, with a quote from the High Priestess herself...

1. Famously anti-tech Anna Wintour gave the perfect five word acceptance speech for Vogue's People's Voice Award at the Webbys: "Sometimes geeks can be chic." Got it in five, Anna - and come on, like we didn't know that already!


2. The fashion hackers have struck again, and it's Beyonce (in kinky Vuitton) vs. Christina  Aguilera (in, well, not a lot) on the leaked covers of this month's W magazine

 3. Alexandra Shulman stepped into the ring for the racism in fashion debate, following the recent racism related lawsuits involving Naomi Campbell and Cadbury and Rihanna and Gucci. In response to Liz Jones' claim that the industry is 'inherently racist', Shulman pointed out: "There have always been black players on the scene — at the moment look at the stylist Edward Enninful, make-up artist Pat McGrath and [models] Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, who are at the top of the tree."The Vogue Editor also hinted that she has two black cover stars lined up for future issues - Michelle O, perhaps?

4. It has been a week for campaign releases, as Tom Ford poses with Lara Stone in his new make up shots
...

 

Lara and Tom try to out 'good face' each other in the Tom Ford makeup campaign

5. ...while Angelina Jolie poses in Cambodia (birthplace of her son, Maddox) for Vuitton 's core values campaign

6. Jess Cartner-Morley declares this the summer of intentional bad taste fashion, all thanks to a Prada banana

Prada SS11, and the banana skirt that started it all...

7. Aggy is back in the business! Everyone's favourite leggy blonde Agyness Deyn has re-signed with her old agency, Select Model Management, and is hoping to stage a comeback. Shouldn't be too tricky when you look like this...

Aggy shot by Tim Walker for the May issue of Vogue. Beautiful!

8. What  has Stefano Pilati been up to while his mate Kate was on her hen weekend on the Isle of Wight? Designing costumes for a new Harold Pinter production, of course! With Kristen Scott Thomas taking the lead in The Betrayal, this will be one dramatic fashion statement.

9. You thought the V&A Vivienne Westwood exhibition had covered it all? Well, now her iconic shoe designs have an exhibition all of their own

 The Gillie shoe, most notorious for bring Naomi down to earth with a bump!

10. Mulberry have had a very, very good year, reporting a 69% increase in revenue.Those cute woodland creatures from their last show are obviously hiding some savvy business sense..

 Mulberry Resort 2012. They don't just do handbags, y'know. It's all about the doggy RTW.

11. A very dapper Jonathan Saunders deservedly picked up Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards - even though the win took him by surprise, having just been "texting Chris Kane saying 'Sam Cam's wearing your dress, you're definitely going to win it!'"

 Designer of the Year Jonathan Saunders picks up his SFA in a trendy teal tie.

11. Following the news that K-Mid's wedding dress is going to go on show at Buckingham Palace, across the pond, the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame have included Gaga's infamous Meat Dress in their 'Women who Rock' exhibit. Thankfully, the meat has been preserved so that the now well-past-it's-sell-by-date flesh dress won't pong out the exhibition! Tasty.

 

12. Stella Tennant presented the Devonshire Cup at Royal Ascot (she's related to the historic English family). On Ladies Day she was sporting a brilliant trilby avec taxidermy birds, designed, of course, by Stephen Jones. Only Stella and Stephen could make dead birds look this good! 

Stella Tennant and Stephen Jones during the design process for Ascot's chic-est headgear. Photographed by Robert Fairer

13. And finally, over the past five days we have continued to be baffled and bewildered by Bip Ling's blog posts and Tweets. A choice example from @BipLing:

"YUPP having a great holidayyyyyyyy SHUVS AND FOREST ARE GREAT FUN YAR YAR YARRR LOVE ITTTT :-) BOOM BOOOM xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"

What?! Does anyone speak Bip and can help us out?!

And that, fashion fans, is the week that was...

Images: Catwalking, Vogue UK, Style.com, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, US Vogue.

WESTWOOD AND WESTFIELD NEED YOUR HELP!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Some of my friends are social workers and drugs councilors, and I often feel a little bit embarrassed that I have chosen to pursue such a glossy career path after hearing heartbreaking stories from an average day in their shoes. But then I remember that no matter what our profession we all have values and morals which are important to us, and of course we strive to find our own way of helping when a situation like the Haiti earthquake demands it. Well the solution is here people...

To support The White Ribbon Alliance Vivienne Westwood is opening a pop-up store at Westfield shopping centre from 19th - 21st February. The shop will be selling limited edition charity t-shirts, and the proceeds will boost the charity's efforts to rebuild Haiti's healthcare system for mothers and babies (who are often the most vulnerable in the aftermath of a disaster). It's your chance to help Haiti and get a piece of Viv history at the same time.

Westfield will also be meeting the faces of Naomi Campbell's Fashion for Relief show tomorrow, and will be streaming live fottage from www.westfield-uk.com.