New York is over for another season, save a few presentations taking place today. Here at FEAL, we're gearing up for the first day of London Fashion Week tomorrow. In the mean time, here are some of our favourites looks from the final few days in NY.
RODARTE
The Mulleavy sisters adopted the mid-century silhouette which has been prevalent for SS12. There were plenty of thick wools and knits alongside pretty prints and delicate frilled evening gowns. The show's first section had a Little House of the Prairie feel, but this gradually toughened up to include shearling and leather on more structured silhouettes. The show ended with two hand print full length chiffon dresses which are as beautiful as they are unnerving.
RODARTE FRONT ROW...
Tavi with roses in her hair
Dakota Fanning, who apparently put on dark glasses a la Wintour to watch the show.
Beautiful loose up- dos backstage
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
Marc by Marc Jacobs was trussed up geek chic, with the addition of f**k of studded bags, satin prom dresses, thick black frame glasses and...
...big, bright red lips
Xiao Wen gets her lips done...
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
The Rodriguez show was mostly an experiment in colour block dresses in hot tangerine, oxblood and sage green. However, my personal favourite look is this two tone drop waist coat- the collar bone exposing v-neck is very chic, either bare or with a polo neck. Plus, I'm developing something of an obsession with mid-calf boots.
REED KRAKOFF
This show began in black and ended in a series of creamy white looks, via orange and maroon. The play with layers and slightly varying tones ups the appeal here. Light, bright runway looks are lovely but whether they translate to the pavement is another question.
PROENZA SCHOULER
Another show inspired by Asian art and embroidery (also see Jason Wu), specifically the fabrics which the designers picked up on a trip to Nepal. Highlights include the quilted bird jackets and panelled skirts and dresses. Amongst those eastern influences were big, cosy leather coats which have winter in NYC written all over them.
Backstage at Proenza Schouler...
Acid trip meets Hindu make-up at Jeremy Scott
hi-top wedges
Jeremy Scott in the new novelty jumper- Bart print.
All catwalk images from catwalking.com. All other images from our favourite NYFW tweeters
We're sensing a Van Gogh vibe for SS12. At NYFW, Rodarte's show was peppered with Van Gogh sunflower prints. Then, at yesterday's Ashish show, there were floral looks abounding- it looked like a how- many- different- flowers- can- you- put- in- a- show challenge. Sure enough, Van Gogh wasn't hard to find in amongst all those blooms. What is it about Van Gogh?
New York Fashion week will end tomorrow with the much anticipated Marc Jacobs show- always looked forward to of course but an extra frisson this season given the intense speculation that the designer will soon be making a move from Vuitton to Dior. Meanwhile, the FashEd and I are busily preparing for the beginning of London's turn on the SS12 merry-go- around. I am particularly excited given this is the first time that I am in some way a real part of the event which I have long read about and dreamt of attending. As somewhat of an aside, I would thoroughly recommend to any readers in that same position I was in just a few months ago (or any reader really) to read Lisa Armstrong's account of her journey to becoming a Fashion Editor. Even the Editors at the very top of their game began blagging their way into shows and adoring the industry they now play a pivotal role in from afar.
So what's been going on at NYFW? Well, there have, apparently, been clothes as well as pregnant pop mega stars and newborn Beckham babies but who'd have known? The clothes are what we here at FEAL want to share with you now. In the coming weeks and months we'll be sharing a tighter edit of the trends which emerge from the shows. But now, in the midst of things, I have picked some looks which jumped out at me.
Narciso Rodriguez: We can already be quite certain that a dropped waist will be an important silhouette. The dress below gives this normally straight and stark detail a modern fluidity. Cut on the bias and not quite at the usual dropped level, we recognise the reference but it's something new too. And the colours whisper 'Summer holiday'.
Narciso Rodriguez SS12
Theyskens' Theory was true to form in its easy wearability. The loose, deconstructed pocket trousers are a sure hit. I will dream tonight about those shiny versions, will someone invite me to a reptilean fancy dress party please? The jacket and the drop-waist dress make one think of the original purveyor of clothes women could live in, Mlle Chanel. But then we look to the feet and the models are being sent down the runway in these trillion inch heels. Rebecca Lowthorpe at Elle asked, via Twitter, that if Theyskens is so keen to dress women in clothes which they will be comfortable in, then why would he include such preposterously proportioned footwear? I can only think that they might add an element of legend and implausibility for a designer who doesn't want to become too literal- he perhaps wants his customers to feel there is an uncrossable canyon between what they see on the catwalk and what they buy and wear themselves. That show quality. But Theyskens was also playing with our minds a bit because his final look, the most heel-deserving of them all, was styled with worker boots. Maybe he just wants us to mix it up a bit more? Or maybe he thinks if Gaga can do it, why can't every other woman?
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Theyskens Theory SS12
Alexander Wang SS12
Another trend which has been brewing since the last round of Spring/ Summer collections and now looks to have full- on exploded, is the printed suit/ top and trouser combo. My favourite thus far is Alexander Wang's for its mesh overlay, leather trim and flash of ab. The faded panel which bring the trousers to a high-waist is a genius twist which helps to break up the print bombardment. I am also fascinated by Wang's hats which look like a deconstructed version of the fun feline ones for Autumn/ Fall which the FashEd blogged about at the weekend. Either that or they look like bags on the models heads. The graphic suit is very Star Trek.
Alexander Wang SS12
Rodarte
Designers often cite obscure sculptors or little known architects among their inspirations, which I do love. It means fashion is always expanding my horizons and making me look at things I would quite possibly not have come across otherwise. HOWEVER, the Mulleavy sisters cited Sleeping Beauty and Vincent Van Gogh as their references for this collection. A zany combination but probably familiar to most of us without having to furiously google something we've never heard of before. And the clothes are a testament to their deft handling of this pairing. It was refreshing also to see that Rodarte is looking across all decades for its shapes, prints and embellishments. There is a lot of room in this collection for the woman's own idea of who she wants to be.
Rodarte
Sophie Theallet
As I read Meenal Mistry's synopsis of Sophie Theallet's show, I saw that Romy Schneider was one of Sophie's muses for this collection. This actress is important right now, given that Erdem used her as a key inspiration for his Resort offering. Theallet's collections was particularly influenced by La Piscine which Romy starred in alongside Alain Delon. I have provided a video as a taster. In case you don't speak French, she begins by saying she is only happy when she's with him and then, a few seconds later is telling him how annoying he is. Sexual tension is key and that backless dress is a key symbol of that. Romy is definitely somebody I will be writing more about at a later date. In the meantime, Sophie's clothes are rather lovely don't you think?
Sophie Theallet
And finally, Preen. This is by far my favourite so far. The colours make my mouth water. The peplums and frills take a silhouette which is familiar to a new level. It has sometimes been hard to imagine where print might go next with all the amazing work we have seen from the likes of Mary Kantrantzou and others. Bregazzi and Thornton have undoubtedly brought something very subtle but nevertheless new to the table which makes me go WOW, WOW, WOW!
In our feverish excitement two days before London Fashion Week, we are getting to grips with the trends coming out of New York. While we edit the collections, it's becoming something of a tradition for us to 'try on' our favourite looks - so brace yourselves for the return of the Big Heads...
Here are my choices, which as per usual do not involve any trousers. I'm still on a quest to discover a pair that truly inspire me, maybe LFW will offer some better choices! Tune in tomorrow for the Fashion Editor's no doubt superb selection.
The ultimate date outfit: A stand out look from the incredible Marc Jacobs collection. The stunning details, perfect colour combinations, sheer sleeves and peter pan collar are so. flipping. hot!
Weekend romanticism courtesy of Rodarte. I can't imagine a more perfect dress to wear with wellies and a cardigan and go kick leaves in. It's a little bit 70's, a little bit country and western, and a lot Little House on the Prairie. 'Anne of Green Gables' hair plaits optional.
The pure fashion outfit, for fashion meetings, in fashionable cities, by Preen. The California Art and Crafts movement provided the inspiration for the lovely, colourful patterns, so this outfit gets bonus geeky points for an art reference. Part of me wants to frame it.
Rodarte - again! This collection was too brilliant to choose just one outfit from. I am making a wildcard prediction that dusky blue hues are going to be the colour of the season, and this high necked, delicate dress would be ideal for a special lunch party or for when you want to look particularly intriguing.
The red carpet dress by Monique Lhullier. It was love at first sight. I don't have many black tie events to attend this autumn, but if I did, this would be the dress I would like to wear. I will enjoy wearing it in my dreams.
While in New York the number one store on my must-visit agenda was Opening Ceremony. I've long been an admirer of the stores philosophy to promote emerging American talent, the collaborations it does with American brands such as Pendletons as well as Robert Clergerie for shoes and even Hakaan for one dress. I especially like the way it offers a creative retail platform to designer/retailers from key global fashion cities. Chloe Sevigny's collection is gorgeous too. Humberto Leon the owner/co-founder plays an active part in the NYC fashion scene and is someone I have a lot of time and respect for.
Here's the BUT, though. (You knew that was coming, didn't you?) For all my enjoyment of its website - window shopping, reading the blog, the great Fashion's Night Out video interview with Anna Wintour - when I actually got to the shop itself, the experience was a huge disappointment.
Without meaning to sound like a princess, I expected a lot more from the stock and store environment. It just does not match the reputation. There was also a certain arrogance to the prices. The first price tag I saw upon walking in was a pair of cream silk crochet ankle socks that were more thin air than sock. Imagine large scale fishnet tights to get the picture. They were by Rodarte - American!! so no duty extras - and costs over $400.
ARE THEY JOKING??? I've interviewed the Rodarte girls and know why their work is special (though who would pay $400 + bucks for socks from them?). But most people - like those I was with in New York - took one look at the socks draped over a bar, saw the price tag, laughed and promptly left the shop to sit outside, leaving me agitated.
When you make grand claims about your fashion philosophy online, and have a stellar media reputation it really matters that your bricks and mortar shop rewards those who have made the effort to get there.
Hakaan collaboration with Opening Ceremony
MY GRIPES
1. The connoisseur knowledge the business claims to have is not evident in the shop in the way it is online. The space is not curated, the rails are as packed as a thrift store that does not know how to merchandise. How am I supposed to know where things are, and why they are special if they are crammed on a rail?
2. If you are going to charge those premium prices, give me the background to the pieces. Give me the story. Give me the staff who are not just standing there posing.
Last night Harvey Nichols hosted a dinner for Lula, to celebrate the magazine turning 5 years old and their collaboration with editor Leith Clark to produce a Lula pop-up boutique on the 4th Floor.
World famous set designer Fiona Leahy created a stunning room for the dinner, complete with gorgeous peony arrangements, kitsch statuettes and walls lined with silver heart shaped balloons.
Leith had invited all of Lula's favourite friends, including the truly elegant actress Clemence Poesy, our new favourite singer Coco Sumner, and designer Erdem.
Clemence Poesy
Coco Sumner
Leith Clark (wearing the specially designed Rodarte for Lula dress) with Erdem
Other fashionable faces included model Liberty Ross, Charlotte Dellal and Daisy de Villeneuve.
The meal was completely chic, with delicious food created by the Harvey Nichols in-house team, including this adorable dessert which caused a ripple of 'ooh's as they were served!
The entire evening was a celebration of all things 'Lula', and was complimented by a great performance by Coco, who serenaded us with a few songs from her debut release.
I Blame Coco at work
Leith, along with the Lula staff and the team at Harvey Nichols have been feverishly preparing the 'Pop Up' boutique, which features a choice selection of exclusive, limited edition pieces created especially for the event. Rodarte designed the beautiful green dress Leith was wearing for the evening (which she said made her feel like a beautiful cake, which is hard to disagree with!) It is also available to buy from the boutique, along with a brilliant 'Radarte' t-shirt and pieces from Miu Miu, Erdem, Lover and Rachel Antonoff. The Pop Up is only open for a short while, so if you are in London make a beeline for the fourth floor of Harvey Nichols, otherwise you can purchase pieces online.
It was a lovely evening, executed with all the attention to detail you would expect from a magazine that makes every page a work of art. Leith was obviously overjoyed with the event and the collaboration itself, perhaps because Harvey Nichols is her favourite shop in London. The only downside to the Harvey Nicks/Lula love in is that it is around for a limited time only - this is the kind of retail 'happening' that should 'happen' more often, as far as we are concerned!
To discover what it is like to attend an event like this as a fashion newbie, have a read of today's Glitterbird post.
