NEW YORK FASHION WEEK AW12: HIGHLIGHTS FROM TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY RODARTE! PROENZA SCHOULER!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

New York is over for another season, save a few presentations taking place today. Here at FEAL, we're gearing up for the first day of London Fashion Week tomorrow. In the mean time, here are some of our favourites looks from the final few days in NY.

RODARTE

The Mulleavy sisters adopted the mid-century silhouette which has been prevalent for SS12. There were plenty of thick wools and knits alongside pretty prints and delicate frilled evening gowns. The show's first section had a Little House of the Prairie feel, but this gradually toughened up to include shearling and leather on more structured silhouettes. The show ended with two hand print full length chiffon dresses which are as beautiful as they are unnerving.

RODARTE FRONT ROW...

Tavi with roses in her hair

Dakota Fanning, who apparently put on dark
 glasses  a la Wintour to watch the show.

Beautiful loose up- dos backstage

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

Marc by Marc Jacobs was trussed up geek chic, with the addition of f**k of studded bags, satin prom dresses, thick black frame glasses and...

...big, bright red lips

Xiao Wen gets her lips done...

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

The Rodriguez show was mostly an experiment in colour block dresses in hot tangerine, oxblood and sage green. However, my personal favourite look is this two tone drop waist coat- the collar bone exposing v-neck is very chic, either bare or with a polo neck. Plus, I'm developing something of an obsession with mid-calf boots.

REED KRAKOFF

This show began in black and ended in a series of creamy white looks, via orange and maroon. The play with layers and slightly varying tones ups the appeal here. Light, bright runway looks are lovely but whether they translate to the pavement is another question.

PROENZA SCHOULER

Another show inspired by Asian art and embroidery (also see Jason Wu), specifically the fabrics which the designers picked up on a trip to Nepal. Highlights include the quilted bird jackets and panelled skirts and dresses. Amongst those eastern influences were big, cosy leather coats which have winter in NYC written all over them.

Backstage at Proenza Schouler...

Acid trip meets Hindu make-up at Jeremy Scott

hi-top wedges

Jeremy Scott in the new novelty jumper- Bart print.

All catwalk images from catwalking.com. All other images from our favourite NYFW tweeters

GRAZIA: SHOPPER BAG MAD

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Shoppers, Shoppers EVERYWHERE (IMAGE streetpeeper.com)

In this week's Grazia, we take a look at the Shopper bag madness gripping the nation- we can barely walk ten paces without seeing another take on the super-practical bag of the moment, even if it's name is rather ironic given the current economic panic gripping Europe. After we went to press, we saw a tonne more we would have loved to include. As you can see, there is one for pretty much every mood, style and budget....

Marc by Marc Jacobs £60

A.P.C £335

Denham £170

 The ultimate purveyor of the shopper (and the one who began the whole thing) is Celine. While the first Celine version may have been super sleek and black, now they are branching out with bright colours and, dare we say this in association with anything Phoebe Philo, FUN textures, as demonstrated in the brown carpet-y version below.

The Celine Cabas £1,880

The Celine Cabas £1,880

Topshop can always be relied upon to bring us many a version of a trend; in the past week they have had a big drop of all kinds of shopper styles which are a little more justifiable than a Celine blow-out. I love the autumnal colourways of the two below,perfect for merrily swinging as you crunch your way through the leaves underfoot. 

Topshop £46

Topshop £32

GRAZIA IS OUT NOW!

HI-TOPPING (or why you will really, really want these sneakers)

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Here at FEAL, we are noticing a change in the tides when it comes to shoes. They're starting to migrate towards being comfortable, wearable and cool, rather than fierce, fetishistic and impossibly uncomfortable. The hi-top trainer with hidden wedge heel is a case in point. Yes I know this is similar in concept to what Tom Cruise wears to disguise his lack of height. Well, we admit it, women want to look taller without wearing heels too. These make our legs look longer, while also making us look like we are wearing flats when we are not. Cool by me. Isabel Marant's fashion badge-of-honour Bekket hi-top wedge sneaker are sold out globally right now, (there are many of us hoping for replenishment). I can't remember a time when I've seen one product so resolutely SOLD OUT. In fact I would go so far as to say the hi-top with hidden wedge is the casual shoe of this moment, and promises to be even hotter for spring 2012...


The Marant Bekkets in Paris  (Image from thisisayes.com)

The Bekket's are more New York gangsta than Parisian as they are super chunky with the wedge pretty much hidden. In Paris I lost count of the number of pairs I spotted, and tbh they've been popular since summer 2010, but now they have gone bonkers.

Isabel Marant Bekket hi-top hidden wedge sneakers. No, you can't have a pair.

The Italian company Ash, quite possibly the original purveyors of the style, have got lots of different variations on their Thelma wedge hi-top and a few of the more summery colourways are reduced at the moment. They have also just launched "Birdy" below, which comes in several colours, and is according to their Marylebone branch, selling our fast online and instore. I'm into the Biba style, which they promise is coming in the next couple of weeks

The "Birdy" by Ash. £189. Just in, and IN STOCK!

The Biba by Ash, coming soon... http://www.ashfootwear.co.uk/

If you are willing to wait, however, Marc by Marc Jacobs have a whole range of said sneakers in its Spring collection.

Marc by Marc Jacobs hi-top wedge for SS12, they will come in many colour combinations

TopShop & co I think you need to get on the job immediately. Surely there are some sneakers just like this in your archive? I'm sure I had a pair when I was 14 from C&A Clockhouse that I wore with candystripe legwarmers...

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: THINGS THAT MAKE ME GO WUUUUU

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I am not at New York fashion week. Want to be there, but couldn't justify the cost in time out from LFW prep and cost. I try make myself feel better about the fact I'm not there by telling myself that - and this is purely personal - only two handfuls of NY designers showing are properly relevant to the global picture of fashion. The rest are successful and pertinent in their homeland.

My NY stars are Marc Jacobs (+ Marc by Marc Jacobs), Alex Wang, Jason Wu, Philip Lim, The Row, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Diane von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren. Also these days I can't not look at Joseph Altuzarra, Peter Som and Prabal Gurung to see what they are picking up on.

Though, as a side-thought, and in a kinda nostalgic way, I am loving that Tara Subkoff has properly brought her label Imitation of Christ (IoC) back to life in the form she originally created it back in the late nineties. Tara was feted then, and she and her friend Chloe Sevigny (who worked on the label too) were the coolest girls in NYC.

An older and wiser Subkoff did a runway show Thursday at the ballroom of the W hotel in Union Square that doubled as the actual wedding of model/actress Lydia Hearst to a man who, according to Susie Lau is called Miles. Though, from the impression I get no-one thought it was real at the time. Surely turning a genuine wedding into a fashion show (or is it the other way round?) is a fashion first?

N.B  SEPTEMBER 13th UPDATE, The Cut blog reported over night that Lydia Hearst claims she is not married after all, and remains resolutely single. So the most twsitedly cool fashion event of NYFW was a stunt after all!

Lydia Hearst and her un-identified new husband. (Image Racked.com)

IoC, in its original form, showed wonderful, crafty and romantic ways to re-work vintage, and seeing the girls dressed in1930s flapper dresses, and depression-era-seeming tea dresses as they wandered dreamily down the aisle made me wish I was at this particular happening.

I want it all. Imitation of Christ by Tara Subkoff

So, as I am not in New York, I use subscription only catwalking.com for visual close ups, flick onto Graziadaily.co.uk to see what our style director Paula Reed is up to and of course, for its complete hose-down of everything that breathes at any given fashion week, Style.com. I have been a fan of style.com since it began in 2000, and still miss my friend Sarah Mower's writing on there, (she's now at American Vogue's website, critiquing. A site, despite forcing myself to be patient with it, I find painful to navigate) though Tim Blanks and Nicole Phelps have stepped into the empty chief critic position at Style with aplomb.

ANYWAY..I've been dreaming of and waiting patiently for the day that on a catwalk site like style.com, a still catwalk image would be accompanied by a moving image, (what a geek). And this morning, when having some face time with the Jason Wu collection -  massive fan of his work and all that - I saw the day had come!  A button to the left of the image says "move It!" and boom, sure enough when you press said button on look 11, Jourdan Dunn - in a black lightweight parka with a decidedly 40s's hourglass/fishtail shape, gym shorts, and a pink lightweight knit over a cute-collared shirt - look, she walks!

Here are the looks from the show that made me go Wuuu...

Jason Wu SS12 (catwalking.com)

With his Spring/Summer 2012 show Jason Wu has picked up with some tiny trends that were emerging at the last shows, and run with them. Namely peplums, an hourglass silhouette of tiny waist and full volume at hips, pretty pink, acid-ish yellow, decorative collars and wearing the same print top-to-bottom. His look is very European American; and this collection is most definitely for a modern, young and cool version of Grace Kelly. Top marks.

RESORT 2012 - FASH JUNIOR GETS BIGHEADED!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Following on from the Fash Ed's Resort 2012 selections, I too had a go at our favourite 'dress up dollly' game to model my own top picks. Judging by these choices, I will primarily be wearing sky blue, hot pink, black, white and gold over the next few months, and acting like a starlet in a Sixties movie.

 Celine's hot hot hot pink throw-on shirt dress. For those 'I feel like Barbie days'.I'd probably have to pair it with a LOT of eyeliner or something to balance out the Pretty in Pink-sugary-sweetness...

 ...and would definitely NOT wear it at the same time as this flipping incredible Michael Kors coat. Wowzers.

 Marc by Marc's dreamy 60s party dress, for the Betty Draper days (and nights)

Whilst Roksanda's crossover playsuit is just classic cool.

 Richard Nicoll's gold dress has spot-on Sixties Sophia Loren style. Could also be teamed with sheer pale tights for an even more Carnaby Street feel, but I'd rather wear it whilst sitting at a cafe in Cannes (note: I am not a member of the Made in Chelsea cast. I'm talking about 1960's Cannes, with Brigitte Bardot posing on the beach in a bikini)

Back in Blighty, with a complete lack of summer weather, this more appropriate Stella McCartney ensemble is simple yet highly effective, Mod-ish awesomeness.  I'd swap the shoes for a nice patent loafer for extra Quadrophenia points.

 Bobby socks? Patent heels? A full tulle mini skirt? A JUMPER WITH A GOOGLY STRAWBERRY ON IT? Nobody does cute like Mulberry do cute. Did I mention it has a strawberry on it?!

 Peter Jensen has produced my favourite Resort images by far (above and below), ostensibly inspired by a silver-haired Meryl Streep, looking cool (as always) in various New York locations. Weirdly, my hair is the same colour as the model, which makes these Big Head pics look even more odd. Seriously though, the clean lines, pastel colours, loafers and general Sixties NY gal perfection made me fall in love with Jensen just a little bit more.

And finally, in true fashion show tradition, the bridal couture...

...er, not really! But this Lanvin number would definitely help me get my Jerry Hall on. Or look like a debutante. Either way, Alber strikes white gold with this one.